The New Buzz: Single-Floral Honeys Taste the Difference - Part 2

May 2009
Unique flavors and compositions of single varietal honeys depend on the flower types that the bees pollinate from. Like wine, the locale’s specific conditions make an impact as well. Don’t take my word for it—taste these to believe it.

Tasmanian Leatherwood
(Tasmanian Honey Co., South-Western Tasmania)
Better sit down before opening the black tin. The musky, earthy aroma smacks you in the face like a leather glove. Just like the rugged, mountainous island south of Australia where this dark, unusual honey comes from, the flavors derived from white leatherwood blossoms are exotic and formidably masculine. Infuse it into a meat marinade for deep complexity.

Chestnut Honey, AOC Corsica
(Antoine and Dominque Poggi, Corsica-France)
Honey is such an important product on this pristine island that it has been given AOC status (Appellation d’Origine Controlée)—and is the only honey-producing region in France to receive such distinction—from the French government. This amber honey appears like the top of a caramelized crème brulee, but its strong, slightly bitter taste develops in your mouth like a fine brandy.

Ohi’a Lehua
(Big Island Bees, Kealakekua, Hawaii)
Ancient Hawaiians considered this tree sacred. The rare red blossoms are found only on the north slope of the “Big Island’s” Mauna Kea volcano and harvested just once a year. This light, creamy orange honey reads on the tongue like caramel popcorn with a slightly tart, floral pop, and pairs well with cheese.

Wilelaiki
(Big Island Bees, Kealakekua, Hawaii)
This gorgeous red-hued honey, derived from organic Christmasberry blossoms on Hawaii’s “Big Island,” seems less sweet than others—but in a good way. Its restrained sugar allows you to taste deep into its subtle spicy notes. It’s melds well into flavorful or spicy foods.

Macadamia
(Big Island Bees, Kealakekua, Hawaii)
Like others that often fit into the “dark, rich, and handsome” category, this one is slightly nutty but a lot of fun. Its velvety flavor, bronzed hue, and fluid pour-ability make it versatile for dripping over fruit, whisking into salad dressings, and as the Japanese do, using it as an alternative for maple syrup. (read about single-floral honeys)

Citrus Honey
(Rau Arte Dolciaria, Sardinia, Italy)
Citrus fruit has been a staple in Sardinian kitchens and, hence, a boon to island beekeepers who produce this god-like golden-white honey. It is noticeably fruit forward—in particular, citrus notes leaning towards lemon—but finishes smooth and buttery. Stir into tea, dollop onto yogurt, or eat straight from the jar.

Lavender Honey
(J.P. Berger, Provence, France)
You can almost taste the bright Provencal sunshine in this exquisite honey made by bees fed on lavender blossoms. Its viscous texture is so white and creamy that it could be mistaken for frozen sorbet. Serve warmed and drizzled on scones, biscuits, and foods that won’t overwhelm its delicate flavor.

These honeys are available through Chefshop.com or 800/596-0885

DUCK LIVER CUSTARD WITH MACADAMIA BLOSSOM HONEY
(Serves 6)
½ pound duck livers
1 cup whole milk
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ cup Madeira
½ pound duck fat
½ pound unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 tablespoons macadamia blossom honey
4 teaspoons kosher salt
4 teaspoons cracked black pepper

Place duck livers and milk in bowl, cover, and soak overnight. The next day, rinse duck livers in cold water. Pat dry and season with 2 teaspoons of salt and pepper. Heat medium-size skillet over high heat. Add olive oil until shimmering. Add duck livers and sear 2 to 3 minutes, or until browned. Flip duck livers over and sear for 1 more minute, then set aside to cool.



Prepare the Madeira sauce by draining fat from skillet. Deglaze with the Madeira, reducing the Madeira by half. Remove from heat.

To prepare the custard, puree cooled duck livers in a food processor. Add the duck fat and butter until they are incorporated. Pour in honey and Madeira reduction and puree the mixture a bit more. Season with remaining salt and pepper.

Strain custard through a fine-mesh sieve. Place in a serving dish and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours, or until the custard is set.

Executive Chef Daniel Ahern
Impromptu Bistro and Wine Bar
Seattle, Washington

PAN-SEARED SALMON WITH HONEY BLACKBERRY SAUCE
(Serves 2)
2 fillets wild Alaskan salmon, skinned
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons high-quality olive oil

Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. Pinch salt and pepper generously onto the salmon fillets and set them aside.
Heat a sauté pan over high heat. Add olive oil. When the oil is hot enough to move around the pan easily, add the salmon, flesh side down. Cook for 3 minutes, or until browned.
Remove pan from stove and place in the oven. Cook until medium rare or 120 degrees F.

HONEY BLACKBERRY SAUCE
(Serves 4)
Note: This sauce is also excellent with roasted chicken or pork chops. Drizzle over ice cream or a flourless chocolate torte for an explosion of taste.

1 pint fresh blackberries (frozen will do, when they are out of season)
1/2 cup water
1 lemon, juiced and zested
3 teaspoons Wilelaiki Blossom honey
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon good-quality balsamic vinegar
Combine all the ingredients into a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. Simmer until the mixture has begun to thicken, about 10 minutes. Let cool until room temperature.

Puree cooled sauce in blender. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Drizzle the sauce over pan-seared salmon.

Shauna James Ahern, Author
Gluten-Free Girl: How I Found the Food That Loves Me Back

ROASTED BIG ISLAND BONE MARROW WITH LEHUA BLOSSOM HONEY AND LOCAL GOAT CHEESE
1 onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 Japanese eggplant, diced
1 tomato (peeled, seeded, and diced)
3 tsp Lehua Blossom honey
1 T sherry vinegar
2 lbs. marrow bones (WT 2-3”)
4 T local goat cheese
2 T chopped parsley
½ cup vegetable oil
French baguette
Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Roast marrow bones for about 5 minutes and let cool. Remove marrow from inside and chop up. In sauce pan over low heat, add onion, garlic, 4 tablespoons vegetable oil, and salt, and pepper to taste. Saute until caramelized.

Heat another pan over medium heat and when hot, add 4 tablespoons vegetable oil. Add eggplant and sauté until golden brown. Combine eggplant and the onion mixture. Add tomato, honey, and vinegar, and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. The add bone marrow. Salt and pepper to taste.

Toast 4 slices of French baguette, spoon mixture on top, and sprinkle with goat cheese and chopped parsley.

Executive Chef Neil Murphy
Merriman’s
Kamuela, Hawaii

HONEY SQUASH
(Serves 6)
3 acorn squashes
½ cup honey
½ cup melted butter
½ tsp. salt
1/3 tsp. cinnamon
¼ tsp. ginger, minced

Preheat over to 375 degrees F. Cut squashes in half lengthwise and remove seeds and fiber. Place in shallow baking pan, cut side down, and add ½ cup water. Bake for 30 minutes. Turn squash upright, and drain liquid. Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl and pour into squash hollows. Bake 15 minutes or until tender, basting frequently with sauce.

Whendi Grad Puett, Owner
Big Island Bees
Kealakekua, Hawaii

SPICY CHAI HONEY ICE CREAM
1/3 oz. mixed ground chai spices (ginger, cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves; freshly-ground is preferable, but pre-mixed works)
4 cups whole milk
9 egg yolks
1 cup plus 2 T. Wilelaiki honey

Warm milk over low heat and add chai spices. While spices are infusing into milk, beat egg yolks in a separate bowl. Add honey and mix until creamy. Add egg yolk mixture to the near-boiling milk, and cook gently over low heat until slightly thickened. Cool and strain through a fine mesh strainer. Freeze in an ice cream maker. Then transfer into a container and freeze a couple of hours longer.

Whendi Grad Puett, Owner
Big Island Bees
Kealakekua, Hawaii

Written By: Susan Kim
Susan is the former West Coast Editor of Coastal Living, covering food, travel, and home design stories around the country.

Her other published articles include those in The New York Times, TIME, San Francisco Chronicle, California Home and Design, Sunset Magazine, CNN.com, Where Magazine (San Francisco), California State Visitor’s Guide, AOL Travel Guide, AcuraStyle, and Living 101.

She makes live television appearances on major networks to discuss lifestyle topics, and has also developed and tested recipes for Select Magazine, Culinary Trends Magazine, and the Asian Grandmother’s Cookbook. Health Magazine and The Chicago Tribune recently covered the story of her career switch, from attorney to writer.