November 2003
From simple, easy to follow recipes to engaging anecdotes
and descriptions, a cookbook for the home chef must satisfy
demanding criteria in order to set itself apart from the thousands
of other cookbooks in print. The task is especially difficult
when the subject is a popular one. Take, for example, Jo Bettoja's
new book, In a Roman Kitchen. Roman cuisine, and especially
the more general topic of Italian cuisine, is well-worn material
for cookbook writing. Despite, however, the commonplace subject
matter, Bettoja has succeeded in writing a delightfully interesting
and useful book. What makes In a Roman Kitchen stand out from
the hundreds of other cookbooks out there on similar subjects?
In a cuisine where it has all "already been done," people
want something new, and yet at the same time, they crave the
same classic recipes. How does In A Roman Kitchen satisfy
both of these requirements?
Jo Bettoja relies on her passion. Her passions for Italy, for Rome,
and for the flavors of Roman cuisine are strong. The reader senses this
love for Roman fare and subsequently becomes "caught up" in the excitement.
From page one, Bettoja expounds on her obsession with all things Roman. Her
story alone creates an enthusiasm that would be hard to conjure up on its
own - born in Georgia, she landed in Italy for a modeling job and never
left. Immersing herself in the Roman way of life and Roman cuisine, Bettoja
threw herself into her new passion and founded what would become a
world-famous cooking school. She authored a book on Southern Italian
cooking and co-authored another on Italian cuisine. All of these
experiences have given Bettoja an incredible wealth of knowledge and
anecdotes that she has put to great use In a Roman Kitchen. Page after page
is filled with stories, descriptions, and information. Certainly other
cookbooks about Italian cuisine compare, but Bettoja's In a Roman Kitchen
sets itself apart by the incredible passion and enthusiasm within its pages.
People crave classic recipes, recognizable flavor combinations, and
food they can understand and identify with. At the same time, they want to
be able to try something new or perhaps they just want to impress their
friends. Bettoja satisfies both of these criteria by offering classic
Italian cuisine simplified with a contemporary feel. She focuses on Roman
fare that is basic enough for everyday cooking and made quite elegant by the
freshness and goodness of the product. Indeed, elegance, fine dining and
what ultimately impresses in this day and age often centers around the
product used. Bottoja understands that properly prepared, local fresh
product is exquisite and needs little to "dress it up." And as for
Bottaja's base recipes, who could go wrong with classic veal scaloppini or
risotto with porcini. And for the more adventurous, the fresh anchovy pie
is wonderful (despite my reservations!) as well as the braised baby lamb
with egg and lemon sauce. Simple and fresh, made with a passion, and oh so
Roman. Jo Bettoja's In a Roman Kitchen is a worthy addition to any cookbook
collection.