April 2003
FarmToTable.org is an exciting sustainable agriculture
and cuisine website that provides educational content
as well as product sourcing information for chefs, food
professionals, and the public. Participating farmers
benefit from a dynamic online marketing tool, while
food buyers gain access to the freshest, healthiest
local food sources available. In addition to sourcing
info, FarmToTable.org features food news from all over
the globe, terrific articles on sustainable agriculture
and cuisine, and tasty recipes.
Who's Behind Farm to Table?
Farm to Table is a project of Earth Pledge (EP), a NYC-based
nonprofit that produces print and Web projects, and
hosts classes, lectures, and special events to promote
sustainable cuisine and sustainable architecture. EP's
aim is to make access to this information readily available,
thus increasing the demand for sustainable products
and enhancing the viability of small, eco-friendly farms.
Just In New York?
Though the education, articles, and news on the site
has a national focus, you will currently only find New
York State farmers on FarmToTable.org. However, the
good news is that fundraising has begun so that Earth
Pledge can take the site national, allowing farmers
from anywhere in the US to connect with chefs and consumers
nationwide. If you are interested in hosting a fundraising
event for FarmToTable.org, please contact Alison
Tozzi at Along with farmer profiles, restaurant
and market info, and up-to-the-minute news, here's a
sample of the kind of educational content what you will
find on FarmToTable.org...
Facing Death on A Farm
I was 14 years old, and in the eighth grade when Antoinette
died. My brother Sean and I sat close by, companions
to the old pet guinea pig as she took her last breaths.
I remember sitting up late, tears smearing the ink in
my notebook as I dutifully finished my homework. Mr.
Ruland required that we record our daily thoughts and
experiences in a journal that we'd hand in at the end
of each week. Between sobs, I scratched away at the
essay that became my on-site therapist. The next morning
I felt shy about turning the work into many feelings
had been recorded. But there was no time to tear out
the pages and start over, so I handed it in. The following
Monday, Mr. Ruland handed the journals back. "Geez Hayes,
living on a farm, I thought you'd be used to that by
now," he said.
People ask me all the time about growing up on Sap Bush
Hollow Farm. I tell them about all the places we played
in and all the different animals we learned about as
kids, the delicious homegrown food I learned to grow
and cook, and the tight-knit community we've always
relied on for friendship and support. They often say,
"that must be wonderful, but I could never do it." By
it I don't think they mean manure management, helping
ewes deliver their lambs, or herding the cows to new
pasture. I think it is about death.
As hill farmers, the physical make-up of our land is
unsuitable for intensive crop production; it would quickly
erode our precious soil. Our chosen role in a viable
and sustainable food system is to produce and harvest
livestock -- chickens, turkeys, cattle, and lamb. Death
is an unavoidable and integral part of our livelihood.
I will never be used to it, whether I'm letting go of
a beloved pet or taking livestock to slaughter, I know
of no responsible farmers who are. If we could get used
to death, we wouldn't make sound decisions about our
animal's lives.
Some farmers keep their children indoors, pulling the
curtains when a slaughter is about to take place. Our
parents never hid death from us. I have early memories
of the pungent odors; the confusion caused by watching
the life flow out of another creature. These are some
of the many hard truths of food production. Along with
livestock realities there are many unintended deaths:
the winter lambs who suffered too much from the cold,
the newborn chicks accidentally crushed, the old dogs
whose time had come, the cats caught in a neighbor's
trap, the farmers who are pinned under tractors that
have rolled over on a steep hillside. The demise of
any creature, whether intended or not, is painful and
disturbing. Though I'm not religious, I always find
myself uttering prayers for each one, quietly appreciating
what they have provided.
As livestock farmers, death is an undercurrent in all
the decisions that we make on the farm. We are directly
responsible for our animals' quality of life. This means
manipulating our lambing schedule so that lambs can
be born out in the fields in late spring, rather than
in the barn during the cold, dark days of February and
March. It means creating spaces for baby chicks to move
about freely, moving animals to fresh pasture every
few days, and keeping guard dogs with the livestock
to protect them from coyotes. It means minimizing our
reliance on large machinery, reducing the chances of
a tragic accident. When it's time to harvest an animal,
it means taking every care to keep them calm and relaxed,
and to keep the process as quick and as painless as
possible. It's a matter of honoring the difference between
death and suffering. If we are "used to" anything, it
is the idea that whether we are humans or animals, we
cannot control our time on this planet. We can only
control the quality of our time.
It's been 13 years since we laid Antoinette to rest.
She was not the first animal we watched pass, nor the
last. Death will never be something that we get used
to; that would undermine our regard for all life, including
our own. My husband Bob and I have decided to continue
farming at Sap Bush Hollow with my parents. We understand
that we cannot be responsible stewards of life if we
are callous about death. Our sensitivity is what leads
us to keep vigilance over the one thing we can control--the
quality of life.
Written By: Farmer Shannon Hayes - Shannon is
a chef and farmer with a Ph.D. in sustainable agriculture
and community development. She writes about food, farming
and rural living for Graze and Farm to Table. She is
also currently working on a Grass fed cookbook. Shannon
grew up on Sap Bush Hollow Farm where she still works
with her parents, Jim and Adele Hayes, and her husband
Bob Hooper.
What's Your Question?
If you have an organic or sustainable food question
ask Shannon. What's
your question?
Links
www.FarmToTable.org
www.EarthPledge.org
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