November 2006
Formerly
the pastry chef at Picholine in New York and San Francisco's
much loved Firefly, she is one of the most acclaimed
pastry chefs of her generation, having been named one of the
ten best pastry chefs in America by Pastry Art & Design in
2005. Zuckerman's desserts, which were described as a "life-changing
experience" by The New York Times, have earned her extravagant
praise from every major critic in the New York area.
After graduating from Princeton with a degree in cultural
anthropology, Zuckerman began her culinary apprenticeship
in Boston under Lydia Shire at Biba and Rick Katz at The Bentonwood
Bakery. She subsequently worked in the kitchens of top restaurants
in San Francisco, Paris and New York.
In 1999 Kate took over the pastry
kitchen of New York's Chanterelle and this month she chatted
with Jeremy Emmerson...
Can you describe your book?
It is a dessert book for chefs and cooks of every level...
Professionals, cooks and amateurs, Sweet Life is filled with
simple recipes that can work as stand alone desserts or used
be in conjunction with other recipes. Allowing the reader
to decide on the challenge; they can keep it simple or go
for it!
How long did it take to write and
publish?
It took me one year to write the manuscript and from that
point another year to get it tested, photographed, printed
and on to bookshelves.
You had mentioned in your book you
weren't sure if it would work out "this mix of pastry and
parenthood". But it has. How do you do it?
It is a constant juggling act. It helps that I start
work early, but to be successful it requires organization,
planning, asking for help and ensuring that you are keeping
both parties balanced.
What do you see as the current trend
in pastry?
Food science is the hot topic right now; I was just at a demonstration
on Sunday. In pastry, many chefs are looking at new ways to
thicken and stabilize recipes, new "scientific" equipment
is being utilized as are unconventional flavor elements -
smoke for example.
It's not my orientation, I am fascinated with sous vide, cooking
proteins in different ways, slow cooking, controlled temperature
and pressure cooking. But I equally enjoy using traditional
techniques for my desserts.
Why did you become a pastry chef?
I started cooking savory food but became more interested in
pastry. It was the aspect of control and the fact that you
can prepare many items in advance. I liked the fact that French
technique dominated the pastry kitchen, the savory side has
so many influences and you can not master them all.
What would you do if you weren't
cooking?
Cooking all of these years has really made me start thinking
about our food; where it comes from and how much we waste…
I think agricultural science would be a great occupation to
pursue.
Let's talk favorites.
What is your favorite thing to cook?
Roasting fruit; figs, pears, peaches… roast fruit are delicious,
the flavors are enhanced, it's so simple but I love it!
Favorite piece of equipment?
Nothing high tech', just my black steel baking pans. They
never warp, conduct heat really well and never stick.
Favorite dessert to eat when you
are out?
Yogurt based desserts - great flavor, love the texture. I
also enjoy custard based sweets and thin crusted tarts.
Favorite cookbook author?
Maida
Heater. This stems back to when I was a kid. I love her
books and they have just been republished!
Kate's
Sweet Life.
The
Sweet Life: Desserts from Chanterelle
by Kate Zuckerman, Tina Rupp (Photographer)
List Price $35.00
Price with Amazon.com $23.10
You Save $11.90 (34%)
Buy
It Online